But I have not spent much time in internet cafes, so you'll have to be patient, my friends. Have so far walked from Madrid to Tres Cantos (The part I didn't do in June) and then from Coca to Sahagun. I now have about 350 km left.
¡Buen Camino!
Day one: To find the way
Tres Cantos (km 653) - Colmenar Viejo (km 641)
I didn't know how to find the way, so I just walked in the right direction, not wise.
I ended up at the carretera which I couldn't cross. However I saw a cycle/pedestrian path on the other side, so I walked back, found a viaduct and on the other side of the railroad:
Voila! My first arrow!
Then... Finally on my way.
But Ohmagawd - am I really going to walk over those mountains?
First break
After walking an hour or so, the camino started to follow a small stream. Every now and then I had to cross it, and I took the opportunity to let my feet feel the cool water! To sit in the shadow and have an energy bar and some peach juice... aaah. Lovely.
Madrid from afar
When entering Colmenar Viejo, I looked back. I could still see the Madrid high rise buildings.
It was still quite early in the afternoon, and most places were closed for siesta. The ayuntamiento (town hall), the tourist office, all closed.
At first I walked to the other side so I knew where to continue my walk next day.
Then I wandered around to find a pension and a hotel. My notes said there should be a pension very close to the Plaza del Pueblo. I couldn't find it. Finally I went to the Railway station (not exactly in the centre of town...) and asked there. Got the name and address of one hostal.
Found my way back to the ayuntamiento, they stamped my credencial and I got the address of another pension. Yes indeed, it was close to the plaza. I had walked past it several times, but there were no signs! A small piece of paper next to the doorbell announced its presence. I rang. No answer. I waited. I rang again. No answer.
Walked all the way to the Gran Hostal. Fully booked. On a Wednesday. Or maybe the lady at the counter thought I wasn't grand enough?
This was the first time ever that I hadn't found a bed for the night in Spain. Or anywhere.
So... by now it was too late to keep on walking.
I took a bus back to Madrid, found a cheap bed in a hostal I've stayed before.
Realised that I would have been in the next town if I just had kept on walking, but I decided to just be happy that I had a room and a bathtub. :)
Tip of the day: Book a room if you want to sleep in Colmenar Viejo.
I didn't know how to find the way, so I just walked in the right direction, not wise.
I ended up at the carretera which I couldn't cross. However I saw a cycle/pedestrian path on the other side, so I walked back, found a viaduct and on the other side of the railroad:
Voila! My first arrow!
Then... Finally on my way.
But Ohmagawd - am I really going to walk over those mountains?
First break
After walking an hour or so, the camino started to follow a small stream. Every now and then I had to cross it, and I took the opportunity to let my feet feel the cool water! To sit in the shadow and have an energy bar and some peach juice... aaah. Lovely.
Madrid from afar
When entering Colmenar Viejo, I looked back. I could still see the Madrid high rise buildings.
It was still quite early in the afternoon, and most places were closed for siesta. The ayuntamiento (town hall), the tourist office, all closed.
At first I walked to the other side so I knew where to continue my walk next day.
Then I wandered around to find a pension and a hotel. My notes said there should be a pension very close to the Plaza del Pueblo. I couldn't find it. Finally I went to the Railway station (not exactly in the centre of town...) and asked there. Got the name and address of one hostal.
Found my way back to the ayuntamiento, they stamped my credencial and I got the address of another pension. Yes indeed, it was close to the plaza. I had walked past it several times, but there were no signs! A small piece of paper next to the doorbell announced its presence. I rang. No answer. I waited. I rang again. No answer.
Walked all the way to the Gran Hostal. Fully booked. On a Wednesday. Or maybe the lady at the counter thought I wasn't grand enough?
This was the first time ever that I hadn't found a bed for the night in Spain. Or anywhere.
So... by now it was too late to keep on walking.
I took a bus back to Madrid, found a cheap bed in a hostal I've stayed before.
Realised that I would have been in the next town if I just had kept on walking, but I decided to just be happy that I had a room and a bathtub. :)
Tip of the day: Book a room if you want to sleep in Colmenar Viejo.
Day two: Not defeated
Colmenar Viejo (km 641) – Manzanares el Real (km 626)
Walking the camino is a test, of course. It's part of the challenge to be outside the comfort zone, not knowing what the day has to offer.
But I hadn't thought that I'd have to face this kind of test. So with a new and weary feeling of what-have-I-gotten-myself-into, I had decided that if I didn't find shelter tonight, I would book somewhere over the internet and stay in one place in the mountains doing daytrips instead of walking the Camino.
With this in mind, I took a bus to Colmenar Viejo, hopped off it close to the Camino and went into a supermarket to get some provisions for the day.
In the supermarket I met an old man who had walked the Camino three times. He offered me a ride, which I gently declined and sad I was doing the camino by foot. (Not mentioning the bus ride ida y vuelta a Madrid, of course.) He laughed a little, and wished me Buen Camino, and so I was on my way again. Feeling much better.
Just outside Colmenar was the milestone for km 639.
I walked and walked. The weather was nice, cloudy but no wind or rain.
Had I known about this deserted house between Colmenar and Manzanares (after crossing the railroad before crossing the M-607), maybe I'd have continued walking yesterday.
Didn't check if it was "sleepable" though!
These, luckily, behind fence.
The fragrance was overwhelming, weed consisting of thyme and this purple bush. Smelled like rosemary, but the colour was a bit different from the ones I've seen in gardens. I'll check the flora and come back!
Checked: It is Spanish Lavender! (Lavandula stoechas)
I also met a hoopoe! My first ever, in the wild.
Not too far from Manzanares el Real, rain is coming closer, but so far not much on me.
When I was close enough to see the town, it started to rain heavily, so I decided to go to the most central hotel I had on my list, even if it was rather early.
And so I did.
The room was fantastic, not too expensive and had a lovely balcony with a view.
a view and a rainbow!
a view, a rainbow and storks just outside the window! How cool is that?
Ayuntamento was closed, so was the castle. Couldn't get my stamp. But the hotel stamped the credencial, so no worries. And it was raining heavily anyway so I felt no need to see the sights.
I was hungry when there were no restaurants open, of course, so I went to the supermercado and bought cheese, ham, bread and wine, and some yoghurt for breakfast.
So, the rest of the night I simply sat on my balcony watching the storks feed their "babies". Not bad, not bad at all.
Tip of the day: Bring - or find - a walking stick. Might help you fight off "dangerous" cows.
Walking the camino is a test, of course. It's part of the challenge to be outside the comfort zone, not knowing what the day has to offer.
But I hadn't thought that I'd have to face this kind of test. So with a new and weary feeling of what-have-I-gotten-myself-into, I had decided that if I didn't find shelter tonight, I would book somewhere over the internet and stay in one place in the mountains doing daytrips instead of walking the Camino.
With this in mind, I took a bus to Colmenar Viejo, hopped off it close to the Camino and went into a supermarket to get some provisions for the day.
In the supermarket I met an old man who had walked the Camino three times. He offered me a ride, which I gently declined and sad I was doing the camino by foot. (Not mentioning the bus ride ida y vuelta a Madrid, of course.) He laughed a little, and wished me Buen Camino, and so I was on my way again. Feeling much better.
Just outside Colmenar was the milestone for km 639.
I walked and walked. The weather was nice, cloudy but no wind or rain.
Had I known about this deserted house between Colmenar and Manzanares (after crossing the railroad before crossing the M-607), maybe I'd have continued walking yesterday.
Didn't check if it was "sleepable" though!
These, luckily, behind fence.
The fragrance was overwhelming, weed consisting of thyme and this purple bush. Smelled like rosemary, but the colour was a bit different from the ones I've seen in gardens. I'll check the flora and come back!
Checked: It is Spanish Lavender! (Lavandula stoechas)
I also met a hoopoe! My first ever, in the wild.
Not too far from Manzanares el Real, rain is coming closer, but so far not much on me.
When I was close enough to see the town, it started to rain heavily, so I decided to go to the most central hotel I had on my list, even if it was rather early.
And so I did.
The room was fantastic, not too expensive and had a lovely balcony with a view.
a view and a rainbow!
a view, a rainbow and storks just outside the window! How cool is that?
Ayuntamento was closed, so was the castle. Couldn't get my stamp. But the hotel stamped the credencial, so no worries. And it was raining heavily anyway so I felt no need to see the sights.
I was hungry when there were no restaurants open, of course, so I went to the supermercado and bought cheese, ham, bread and wine, and some yoghurt for breakfast.
So, the rest of the night I simply sat on my balcony watching the storks feed their "babies". Not bad, not bad at all.
Tip of the day: Bring - or find - a walking stick. Might help you fight off "dangerous" cows.
Day three: A new dawn
Manzanares el Real (km 626) – Navacerrada (km 612)
What can I say? Room with a view! Dawn, castle, lake, mountains.
Silence except from the clop-clop-clopping of the storks.
I was on my way by sunrise.
No rain this morning!
I can see – and feel – that I'm on a higher altitude.
The flora has changed a bit. Some flowers are varieties of ones I know from home.
But this lovely bush, I don't know. The scent is very familiar, though.
Maybe it's some kind of wild Peony? I really really really need a spanish flora, but I will not carry one on my back ;)
Lost the yellow arrows for a bit, so I followed the main road.
Sat down in the shadow to let my shoes (and feet) get a little air!
Km 612, in the centre of Navacerrada.
The hostal I had planned on staying at was... closed for renovation. Another night in a hotel. Well, I hadn't spent much money on anything else so I enjoyed the luxury and slept very well indeed.
Tip of the day: Enjoy the company of you. Solitude is nothing to fear!
What can I say? Room with a view! Dawn, castle, lake, mountains.Silence except from the clop-clop-clopping of the storks.
I was on my way by sunrise.
No rain this morning!
I can see – and feel – that I'm on a higher altitude.
The flora has changed a bit. Some flowers are varieties of ones I know from home.
But this lovely bush, I don't know. The scent is very familiar, though.
Maybe it's some kind of wild Peony? I really really really need a spanish flora, but I will not carry one on my back ;)
Lost the yellow arrows for a bit, so I followed the main road.
Sat down in the shadow to let my shoes (and feet) get a little air!
Km 612, in the centre of Navacerrada.
The hostal I had planned on staying at was... closed for renovation. Another night in a hotel. Well, I hadn't spent much money on anything else so I enjoyed the luxury and slept very well indeed.
Tip of the day: Enjoy the company of you. Solitude is nothing to fear!
Day four: Rain in Spain stays mainly in the mountains.
Navacerrada (km 612) – Las Dehesas, Cercedilla (km 604)
Navacerrada from above.
It was raining, but not too much. Yet.
As next day's stage over Puerto Fuenfria would be the longest so far, I had decided to try to find a bed at the Youth hostel in Las Dehesas, which was as close as I could get. Of course there turned out to be some kind of event in Cercedilla this week. And countrary to my expectations I was not even allowed inside to dry up, even though I explained I was a peregrina. And I was wet.
I asked if they knew a bar or restaurant neaby so I at least could get a coffee before walking down to the village again.
Yup. And it Casa Cirilo was not only a restaurant, but a hotel.
I had some lunch, coffee, a shower and by now it was not raining so I walked back down the three or four kilometres to the village to get supplies for next day. Then I had a small supper and a big cerveza at the bar in the hotel.
Tip of the day: Never give up. Help and friendly encouragement may not come where you expect it, but it will come.
Navacerrada from above.
It was raining, but not too much. Yet.
As next day's stage over Puerto Fuenfria would be the longest so far, I had decided to try to find a bed at the Youth hostel in Las Dehesas, which was as close as I could get. Of course there turned out to be some kind of event in Cercedilla this week. And countrary to my expectations I was not even allowed inside to dry up, even though I explained I was a peregrina. And I was wet.
I asked if they knew a bar or restaurant neaby so I at least could get a coffee before walking down to the village again.
Yup. And it Casa Cirilo was not only a restaurant, but a hotel.
I had some lunch, coffee, a shower and by now it was not raining so I walked back down the three or four kilometres to the village to get supplies for next day. Then I had a small supper and a big cerveza at the bar in the hotel.
Tip of the day: Never give up. Help and friendly encouragement may not come where you expect it, but it will come.
Day five: High fashion
Las Dehesas (km 604) – Segovia (km 576)
I woke up when it was still dark outside, by more rain hammering on my window. Was on the road by eight o'clock, knowing I had a long and somewhat strenous walk ahead of me.
My poncho and rain jacket weren't sufficient, so yesterday I got some garbage bags and duct tape at Supersol and made a pair of rain chaps. High fashion, or is the correct term High altitude fashion, perhaps? They worked extremely well and were ultra light so I was happy! They also protected a bit from the strong winds at Puerto Fuenfria. My hat got a shower cap from the same material, as yesterday had proved that impregnation wasn't enough to keep my head dry.
Pretty, am I not?
Part of the road was paved, as it is an old Roman road. More or less a stream in this weather. Much better than mud track, though!
This's supposed to be a view point so beautiful it's marked on the map. This morning there was only clouds to see. Beautiful still. I had a Robin following me for a while. Very cute.
It' strange to think that this road has been here since Roman times. I hope whoever made it also had time to take a break and watch the view.
Pretty steep, and I feel the altitude. Taking one step at the time.
Four kilometres took three hours to walk.
By now I'm not only wet, but cold too. Still I don't regret being here on my own. It's wonderful.
My new hobby is to find a way of stretching various muscles without taking the backpack off!
Being a country girl I'm ashamed to admit it but cows are scary. Especially cows protecting their new born calves against foreign ladies covered in plastic. Armed with a brand new walking stick and some old songs sung at the top of my voice I take the high road and is scary enough to walk by without being hunted by the evil beasts.
The cow "fear factor" is the reason I kept the fence between myself and the Puerto Fuenfría milestone that states I'm at 1796 metres above sea level...
The rain has stopped and I have changed into dry clothes and changed my inner soles and socks too. Had some canned tuna salad, (cold) coffee, a piece of cake and was happy to be on my way downwards.
Tough chick, huh?
Once in Segovia I just stopped at a hotel that looked really nice, couldn't walk one extra step. It was even more luxurios than the one in Navacerrada. I spent half an hour in the bath tub, if not more. I wasn't hungry at all after all my energy bars and coconut cakes, but had a glass of wine in in mind. However, I ended up watching telly, drinking tea. Sandra Bullock sounds really stupid dubbed to Spanish, but so does Keanu Reeves. (Yup, it was Speed).
Tip of the day: Bring many dry socks and innersoles, and don't forget spanish cakes – they'll keep you going.
I woke up when it was still dark outside, by more rain hammering on my window. Was on the road by eight o'clock, knowing I had a long and somewhat strenous walk ahead of me.
My poncho and rain jacket weren't sufficient, so yesterday I got some garbage bags and duct tape at Supersol and made a pair of rain chaps. High fashion, or is the correct term High altitude fashion, perhaps? They worked extremely well and were ultra light so I was happy! They also protected a bit from the strong winds at Puerto Fuenfria. My hat got a shower cap from the same material, as yesterday had proved that impregnation wasn't enough to keep my head dry.
Pretty, am I not?
Part of the road was paved, as it is an old Roman road. More or less a stream in this weather. Much better than mud track, though!
This's supposed to be a view point so beautiful it's marked on the map. This morning there was only clouds to see. Beautiful still. I had a Robin following me for a while. Very cute.
It' strange to think that this road has been here since Roman times. I hope whoever made it also had time to take a break and watch the view.
Pretty steep, and I feel the altitude. Taking one step at the time.
Four kilometres took three hours to walk.
By now I'm not only wet, but cold too. Still I don't regret being here on my own. It's wonderful.
My new hobby is to find a way of stretching various muscles without taking the backpack off!
Being a country girl I'm ashamed to admit it but cows are scary. Especially cows protecting their new born calves against foreign ladies covered in plastic. Armed with a brand new walking stick and some old songs sung at the top of my voice I take the high road and is scary enough to walk by without being hunted by the evil beasts.
The cow "fear factor" is the reason I kept the fence between myself and the Puerto Fuenfría milestone that states I'm at 1796 metres above sea level...
The rain has stopped and I have changed into dry clothes and changed my inner soles and socks too. Had some canned tuna salad, (cold) coffee, a piece of cake and was happy to be on my way downwards.
Tough chick, huh?
Once in Segovia I just stopped at a hotel that looked really nice, couldn't walk one extra step. It was even more luxurios than the one in Navacerrada. I spent half an hour in the bath tub, if not more. I wasn't hungry at all after all my energy bars and coconut cakes, but had a glass of wine in in mind. However, I ended up watching telly, drinking tea. Sandra Bullock sounds really stupid dubbed to Spanish, but so does Keanu Reeves. (Yup, it was Speed).
Tip of the day: Bring many dry socks and innersoles, and don't forget spanish cakes – they'll keep you going.
Day six: Segovia
Segovia – resting day.
I rested on the sixth day already. Walked almost 11 kms anyway, according to my pedometer!
Segovia is a beautiful town with a spectacular roman aqueduct crossing the centre of the city.
Ohmagawd. Did I really walk over those mountains in one day?
Family joke :D
My grandpa was called Calle (Charlie) and our old cat was called Millan... Simple as that.
This night I choose to move to a room closer to Plaza Mayor and a bit cheaper than yesterday.
Look at the boards in the ceiling. They were around 60 cm, I kid you not!
The house must be several centurys old.
I rested on the sixth day already. Walked almost 11 kms anyway, according to my pedometer!
Segovia is a beautiful town with a spectacular roman aqueduct crossing the centre of the city.
Ohmagawd. Did I really walk over those mountains in one day?
Family joke :D
My grandpa was called Calle (Charlie) and our old cat was called Millan... Simple as that.
This night I choose to move to a room closer to Plaza Mayor and a bit cheaper than yesterday.
Look at the boards in the ceiling. They were around 60 cm, I kid you not!
The house must be several centurys old.
Day seven: Company!
Segovia (km 576) – Añe (km 555)
I had lost the yellow arrows on my way into town, so I simply headed towards Zamarramala. But. Look and behold, 2 blocks from my pension I suddenly saw a small but significant "graffitti". On the right track again.
Looking back at Segovia. Looks like a fairy tale town, doesn't it?
After Segovia the landscape is very different. No more hills, just plain old plains.
Another milestone. The sight of a milestone always cheers me up a little.
In Añe the bar was closed, the shop was closed and I started to check my supplies. But women of all ages started to gather on the square with their purses ready. So I waited with them, and as an answer to my prayers: The grocery van! I got arroz con leche (sweet rice porridge), some fruit and some yoghurt.
Then the lovely lady who runs the bar and has the keys to the albergue made me a sandwich with chorizo. Protein and carbs, just what a walker needs.
In the albergue there was no light and no heating of the water, but it didn't matter to me as I'd go to bed early and could shower another day.
While I ate my sandwich along with the rice pudding, someone knocked at the door. I had company!
It was another peregrina! P, who is Spanish. She talked to the lady about the electricity, and in a few minutes we had both light and hot water.
I really enjoyed having company for the night.
The albergue here was free, which I think is marvellous. It's run by volunteers in Añe.
I had lost the yellow arrows on my way into town, so I simply headed towards Zamarramala. But. Look and behold, 2 blocks from my pension I suddenly saw a small but significant "graffitti". On the right track again.
Looking back at Segovia. Looks like a fairy tale town, doesn't it?
After Segovia the landscape is very different. No more hills, just plain old plains.
Another milestone. The sight of a milestone always cheers me up a little.
In Añe the bar was closed, the shop was closed and I started to check my supplies. But women of all ages started to gather on the square with their purses ready. So I waited with them, and as an answer to my prayers: The grocery van! I got arroz con leche (sweet rice porridge), some fruit and some yoghurt.
Then the lovely lady who runs the bar and has the keys to the albergue made me a sandwich with chorizo. Protein and carbs, just what a walker needs.
In the albergue there was no light and no heating of the water, but it didn't matter to me as I'd go to bed early and could shower another day.
While I ate my sandwich along with the rice pudding, someone knocked at the door. I had company!
It was another peregrina! P, who is Spanish. She talked to the lady about the electricity, and in a few minutes we had both light and hot water.
I really enjoyed having company for the night.
The albergue here was free, which I think is marvellous. It's run by volunteers in Añe.
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