I had in mind...

To make this a proper guide to the Camino from Madrid.
But time passed and it never happened. You know when you get home, life needs you elsewhere than lingering on your memories. But if you wish to know more about this lovely Camino, send me a mail (link on my profile) or make a comment and I'll answer as soon as I can!

Finally there, inside the cathedral. Nov 2007. After 700 kms on foot - albeit not all in one go;)
( the funny hairdo? I had cut it with my swiss army scissors some nights before, not bad huh?)

¡Buen camino!

Madrid - Tres Cantos. Back on track

First I had decided to walk the part that I skipped in June, when I merely wanted to see if this walking business was at all possible for a couch potato like me. In June I also wanted to get out into the nature as soon as I could.
Anyway, this time around I wanted to start from central Madrid.
I wanted to get a stamp (sello) from la iglesia de Santiago, but I didn't have patience to wait for the church to open in the morning. I had coffee and churros in the bar next to the church instead ;)


... and then I started to walk!
I got a sello at another church after a few kilometres. I think it was the first one they had stamped! It was quite hot, so I stopped a few times to buy water and coffee in various bars and sandwich shops.
The first part isn't marked with the yellow arrows, but the free maps a certain big warehouse chain publishes covers the streets all the way to Fuencarral. You can find arrows from Paseo de la Castellana. (Plaza Castilla).

I walked to Fuencarral. Waiting for P, the peregrina I met in June, I walked around the town and had a few tapas on the square near the metro station. (If you want to start outside Madrid just take the metro to Fuencarral.)


Tip of the day: Today was hot and sunny, and no shadow - don't forget to bring water and a hat!



Next morning P and el perro Mati followed me a while.

The path from Fuencarral to Tres Cantos had no cafeterias or places to buy water unless you leave the camino, so carry some extra from the start. I was very thirsty when I reached Tres Cantos! (I nicked some figs from a tree by the path, sorry about that.)
In the town hall they told me that the police stamped credencials, and in the police office they said the opposite. But I got the sello from the polite policeman after saying that the ayuntamiento hadn't given me one!

Coca - Villeguillo - Alcazaren. La meseta is...flat.

From Tres Cantos I had a lot of luck with trains and buses, I had a lunch/dinner in Segovia between buses, at a salad bar that was open during siesta hours. You gotta love the fast food chains!
I arrived in Coca late afternoon, and got a room at the guesthouse near the bus stop. Visited the church, and ayuntamiento to get my sello.
Next morning I was only walking to Villeguillou, because I wanted to stay in the brand new albergue there.


Fields, pine trees, more fields. I didn't see many people.
Got to Villeguillou during la siesta ...as usual my timing sucked. But the bar was open, and the owner knew who had the keys to the albergue, so I waited in the bar. It was between lunch and dinner, but the bar owner offered to do something "light" to eat, and I had a wonderful big omelette sandwich. Later in the afternoon I bought some cured ham from one of the market cars that services the castilian small towns without grocery stores. (Like the one in Añe).


The albergue was brand new, very clean and nice. I was the only one there, and the only bad thing was that there were no curtains on the window. I didn't think much of it as there was nothing outside.
But late at night I heard whispering outside, and it turned out to be two kids. I didn't confront them about the rudeness of trying to get a glimpse of the foreign lady (if that was what they were doing), I simply said "hello boys, what's your names" and they ran away after realising that I noticed them.
I had a bit hard to relax after that, even if they were too young to be dangerous, it made me realise that the whole town knew there was a woman on her own in the albergue. I put up my scarf as a curtain.


One of the two new bathrooms.


Fridge, freezer, tv and kitchenette. I had my half filled camelback in the freezer during the night, filled it up with water that was cool during the whole next day.


Villeguillou albergue from the outside. The alcalde (mayor) of the town, has the keys.


Sunrise.


I took the "wrong" old camino by mistake, didn't see where the new detour started, and this is the finca where the owner presumably doesn't want peregrinos to walk through his property. But I sat in the shadow outside one of the houses taking a break, didn't see many people, and those I saw seemed friendly enough. Looked more like a village than a one family farm, even had a (closed) bar.


In Alcazaren you collect the keys at Bar Pepin, and he made me a wonderful three course meal even if it was a bit early, as usual.
I went to the grocery store to get some food for the next day, and picked up some things to clean the albergue. Which had a lovely - but not very clean - bathroom, with a full size tub!

Alcazaren - Puente Duero - Cigunuela

I'm back!

But I have not spent much time in internet cafes, so you'll have to be patient, my friends. Have so far walked from Madrid to Tres Cantos (The part I didn't do in June) and then from Coca to Sahagun. I now have about 350 km left.
¡Buen Camino!

Day one: To find the way

Tres Cantos (km 653) - Colmenar Viejo (km 641)
I didn't know how to find the way, so I just walked in the right direction, not wise.
I ended up at the carretera which I couldn't cross. However I saw a cycle/pedestrian path on the other side, so I walked back, found a viaduct and on the other side of the railroad:
Voila! My first arrow!



Then... Finally on my way.
But Ohmagawd - am I really going to walk over those mountains?



First break
After walking an hour or so, the camino started to follow a small stream. Every now and then I had to cross it, and I took the opportunity to let my feet feel the cool water! To sit in the shadow and have an energy bar and some peach juice... aaah. Lovely.









Madrid from afar
When entering Colmenar Viejo, I looked back. I could still see the Madrid high rise buildings.



It was still quite early in the afternoon, and most places were closed for siesta. The ayuntamiento (town hall), the tourist office, all closed.
At first I walked to the other side so I knew where to continue my walk next day.
Then I wandered around to find a pension and a hotel. My notes said there should be a pension very close to the Plaza del Pueblo. I couldn't find it. Finally I went to the Railway station (not exactly in the centre of town...) and asked there. Got the name and address of one hostal.
Found my way back to the ayuntamiento, they stamped my credencial and I got the address of another pension. Yes indeed, it was close to the plaza. I had walked past it several times, but there were no signs! A small piece of paper next to the doorbell announced its presence. I rang. No answer. I waited. I rang again. No answer.
Walked all the way to the Gran Hostal. Fully booked. On a Wednesday. Or maybe the lady at the counter thought I wasn't grand enough?
This was the first time ever that I hadn't found a bed for the night in Spain. Or anywhere.

So... by now it was too late to keep on walking.
I took a bus back to Madrid, found a cheap bed in a hostal I've stayed before.
Realised that I would have been in the next town if I just had kept on walking, but I decided to just be happy that I had a room and a bathtub. :)

Tip of the day: Book a room if you want to sleep in Colmenar Viejo.

Day two: Not defeated

Colmenar Viejo (km 641) – Manzanares el Real (km 626)



Walking the camino is a test, of course. It's part of the challenge to be outside the comfort zone, not knowing what the day has to offer.
But I hadn't thought that I'd have to face this kind of test. So with a new and weary feeling of what-have-I-gotten-myself-into, I had decided that if I didn't find shelter tonight, I would book somewhere over the internet and stay in one place in the mountains doing daytrips instead of walking the Camino.
With this in mind, I took a bus to Colmenar Viejo, hopped off it close to the Camino and went into a supermarket to get some provisions for the day.
In the supermarket I met an old man who had walked the Camino three times. He offered me a ride, which I gently declined and sad I was doing the camino by foot. (Not mentioning the bus ride ida y vuelta a Madrid, of course.) He laughed a little, and wished me Buen Camino, and so I was on my way again. Feeling much better.



Just outside Colmenar was the milestone for km 639.


I walked and walked. The weather was nice, cloudy but no wind or rain.
Had I known about this deserted house between Colmenar and Manzanares (after crossing the railroad before crossing the M-607), maybe I'd have continued walking yesterday.
Didn't check if it was "sleepable" though!



These, luckily, behind fence.





The fragrance was overwhelming, weed consisting of thyme and this purple bush. Smelled like rosemary, but the colour was a bit different from the ones I've seen in gardens. I'll check the flora and come back!
Checked: It is Spanish Lavender! (Lavandula stoechas)
I also met a hoopoe! My first ever, in the wild.



Not too far from Manzanares el Real, rain is coming closer, but so far not much on me.
When I was close enough to see the town, it started to rain heavily, so I decided to go to the most central hotel I had on my list, even if it was rather early.
And so I did.
The room was fantastic, not too expensive and had a lovely balcony with a view.



a view and a rainbow!



a view, a rainbow and storks just outside the window! How cool is that?

Ayuntamento was closed, so was the castle. Couldn't get my stamp. But the hotel stamped the credencial, so no worries. And it was raining heavily anyway so I felt no need to see the sights.
I was hungry when there were no restaurants open, of course, so I went to the supermercado and bought cheese, ham, bread and wine, and some yoghurt for breakfast.
So, the rest of the night I simply sat on my balcony watching the storks feed their "babies". Not bad, not bad at all.

Tip of the day: Bring - or find - a walking stick. Might help you fight off "dangerous" cows.

Day three: A new dawn

Manzanares el Real (km 626) – Navacerrada (km 612)

What can I say? Room with a view! Dawn, castle, lake, mountains.
Silence except from the clop-clop-clopping of the storks.
I was on my way by sunrise.



No rain this morning!



I can see – and feel – that I'm on a higher altitude.
The flora has changed a bit. Some flowers are varieties of ones I know from home.





But this lovely bush, I don't know. The scent is very familiar, though.
Maybe it's some kind of wild Peony? I really really really need a spanish flora, but I will not carry one on my back ;)











Lost the yellow arrows for a bit, so I followed the main road.
Sat down in the shadow to let my shoes (and feet) get a little air!



Km 612, in the centre of Navacerrada.
The hostal I had planned on staying at was... closed for renovation. Another night in a hotel. Well, I hadn't spent much money on anything else so I enjoyed the luxury and slept very well indeed.

Tip of the day: Enjoy the company of you. Solitude is nothing to fear!

Day four: Rain in Spain stays mainly in the mountains.

Navacerrada (km 612) – Las Dehesas, Cercedilla (km 604)


Navacerrada from above.
It was raining, but not too much. Yet.

As next day's stage over Puerto Fuenfria would be the longest so far, I had decided to try to find a bed at the Youth hostel in Las Dehesas, which was as close as I could get. Of course there turned out to be some kind of event in Cercedilla this week. And countrary to my expectations I was not even allowed inside to dry up, even though I explained I was a peregrina. And I was wet.
I asked if they knew a bar or restaurant neaby so I at least could get a coffee before walking down to the village again.
Yup. And it Casa Cirilo was not only a restaurant, but a hotel.
I had some lunch, coffee, a shower and by now it was not raining so I walked back down the three or four kilometres to the village to get supplies for next day. Then I had a small supper and a big cerveza at the bar in the hotel.

Tip of the day: Never give up. Help and friendly encouragement may not come where you expect it, but it will come.

Day five: High fashion

Las Dehesas (km 604) – Segovia (km 576)
I woke up when it was still dark outside, by more rain hammering on my window. Was on the road by eight o'clock, knowing I had a long and somewhat strenous walk ahead of me.
My poncho and rain jacket weren't sufficient, so yesterday I got some garbage bags and duct tape at Supersol and made a pair of rain chaps. High fashion, or is the correct term High altitude fashion, perhaps? They worked extremely well and were ultra light so I was happy! They also protected a bit from the strong winds at Puerto Fuenfria. My hat got a shower cap from the same material, as yesterday had proved that impregnation wasn't enough to keep my head dry.



Pretty, am I not?



Part of the road was paved, as it is an old Roman road. More or less a stream in this weather. Much better than mud track, though!



This's supposed to be a view point so beautiful it's marked on the map. This morning there was only clouds to see. Beautiful still. I had a Robin following me for a while. Very cute.



It' strange to think that this road has been here since Roman times. I hope whoever made it also had time to take a break and watch the view.



Pretty steep, and I feel the altitude. Taking one step at the time.
Four kilometres took three hours to walk.
By now I'm not only wet, but cold too. Still I don't regret being here on my own. It's wonderful.
My new hobby is to find a way of stretching various muscles without taking the backpack off!



Being a country girl I'm ashamed to admit it but cows are scary. Especially cows protecting their new born calves against foreign ladies covered in plastic. Armed with a brand new walking stick and some old songs sung at the top of my voice I take the high road and is scary enough to walk by without being hunted by the evil beasts.



The cow "fear factor" is the reason I kept the fence between myself and the Puerto Fuenfría milestone that states I'm at 1796 metres above sea level...



The rain has stopped and I have changed into dry clothes and changed my inner soles and socks too. Had some canned tuna salad, (cold) coffee, a piece of cake and was happy to be on my way downwards.











Tough chick, huh?

Once in Segovia I just stopped at a hotel that looked really nice, couldn't walk one extra step. It was even more luxurios than the one in Navacerrada. I spent half an hour in the bath tub, if not more. I wasn't hungry at all after all my energy bars and coconut cakes, but had a glass of wine in in mind. However, I ended up watching telly, drinking tea. Sandra Bullock sounds really stupid dubbed to Spanish, but so does Keanu Reeves. (Yup, it was Speed).

Tip of the day: Bring many dry socks and innersoles, and don't forget spanish cakes – they'll keep you going.